Couple of watercooling questionsFollow

If you are running a proper water cooling coolant with anti-fungal chemicals already in it, antifungal tubing is not even slightly a concern. I would definitely advise getting some sort of transparent tubing for your first water cooling build though. Makes troubleshooting much easier. Also, make sure you get the external jacket springs to slide over whatever tubing you get. Prevents kinks in the hose and lets you get much closer bends in your runs.

In a managed system, the only reason to have two pumps is if you want to have two separate coolant loops (to isolate thermal conditions for video cards and processor for example. In a single pump system, a pump failure will just prevent the system from starting up. I've never actually had a pump fail on me in 10 years of water cooling things for what its worth. I actually run that RP-1200 in my primary machine. You can see additional pictures of it in the build thread I posted in here somewhere in this forum if you want to see additional details. The managed features are definitely worth it in my opinion, and you can actually run a second external pump and control it through that unit if you ever wanted to. Replacing the pump requires about 4 screws, unplugging 2 wires, and undoing 2 hose clamps.

The secondary machine has an older INX 720 unit that is no longer produced.

With either one of those I'd recommend a secondary reservoir as well. Makes filling the system easier because you can turn the whole computer on its side, raise the reservoir outside the case up higher than the rest of the components, and fill from there. With priming as needed, etc.

Those temps don't seem high enough for you to need watercooling, but Kao is a better judge than me.

Like Kao I like a nice quiet system and for the most part my air cooling has been quiet. To cool the GPU below 70C I would have to manually set the fans to +50%, unfortunately the fans are shrieking louder then say umm Darqflame at a Quiet Riot concert. (I see poking around my thread Darq ;p)

I currently don't over clock, I may be a crazy taru but I'm not silly enough to overclock on a air cooled system thought that will change after moving to water cooled. Besides the latest bios offers a water cooling setting and I love to tinker around with new settings.

Yeah I'mma gonna be gettin a bunch of them there disconnect fittings as I'll probably be tinkering around with components till I'm satisfied. I'll begin ordering parts by the end of the week or start of next week haven't decided yet.

Cool! You should post some pictures of the guts! Glad its working

Also, depending on your load and configuration you may be able to safely turn the pump down a few notches and get much quieter operation.

Nice job! Definitely not bad at all for a first water cooling build.

For round two, you might want to consider moving that rear radiator inside the case just to protect those fittings from being hit when you push the chassis back. The trick to it is mounting them like this: using bolts that thread into the radiator, but are long enough to pass through the fan entirely, making a case back / fan / radiator sandwich. I think you're likely stuck with that top radiator on the outside unless you decide to get a taller case someday. I like those disconnect fittings too. Those are the 1 revision newer series than the ones I have on my rig.

You have big enough tubing that the jacket springs probably aren't going to be required. Tubing in the bends does tend to collapse flat over time without them, but your bend radius aren't sharp enough that they are going to be a major flow issue. I'd put them on anyways when you get a chance just to get in the habit of it. Also, what water cooling fluid are you using? is that something with anti fungal and anti-freeze additives in it, or is it straight water?

The trick to get it to stop complaining about the fan is to go into the "monitoring" section of the bios and set the fan speed monitor for CPU fan 1 and 2 to "ignore" "N/A" or "Not available" in bios. I forget which one it is, but I have basically the same motherboard you do, so I know it's there. You may have to be in advanced mode to see it. Once you turn that off you shouldn't get the message anymore.

Looks good! Nice job!

Any of the 16x pci express slots in there will take that video card at full throughput. it doesn't have to be the top slot. That would mean extending the link to the video card though.

You can use 3 pin fans on the 4 pin headers. the 4th pin just gives the fan more controllable and precise throttling. 3 wires still gives the fan port voltage and tachometer lead, so the board can still adjust the speed up or down. Just make sure the 3 pin is centered on the plug guide and everything lines up fine.

Ok good. Just checking. sometimes people use tap water for their first cooling efforts and slime grows in it and it eats their water blocks and tubing from the inside. The Koolance stuff is great. I use the same stuff, just the blue colored variant. Mainly out of habit.

The rear fan in the CPU socket would still work at that point, just full throttle with no monitoring. You could also just adjust the RPM range down for that fan to whatever it thinks it should be.